A perfect ten: a few words about coffee scoring

2021-04-26
A perfect ten: a few words about coffee scoring

Why give coffee points?

Some people might stop reading and snap their laptops shut here. After all, how we perceive flavours and aromas, and whether we enjoy them, is subjective, just like preferring a dripper to a moka pot. Why assess a coffee's aromatic bouquet and other qualities rather than simply enjoy them? There are several reasons. Some sound a little cynical, such as balancing the price we pay against the coffee's actual quality. For us, it is also about recognising and rewarding the work of the people who put tremendous effort into producing the coffee we are tasting. Besides, if we drink something called specialty coffee, we should expect a certain quality, should we not? Quality control is what those intimidating-sounding coffee scores are for.

How is coffee scored?

Coffee is awarded points by organisations bringing together its producers. There is no single international scoring system shared by every association, but the assessment principles are broadly similar. Perhaps the most respected assessment is that given by SCA Q graders at professional cuppings. The Specialty Coffee Association's demanding standards govern sample preparation, brewing, water parameters and cupping equipment, ensuring that each coffee is assessed under conditions that are as objective as possible.

For a fair assessment, each ground-coffee sample must be tested in not one cup but five. Why? Imagine evaluating Costa Rican Caturra and easily detecting its characteristic caramel notes in four cups, only to pick up an unpleasant cheesy smell in another. This may indicate that some of the coffee has spoiled, perhaps because some beans were stored in overly humid conditions. We can record that defect, and its presence will affect the final score.

What is scored?

The assessment takes place on special forms. They look complicated at first, but after a few attempts they become clear and intuitive. Testing happens quickly because Q graders trust their noses and taste buds. Many believe the first impressions of flavour and aroma best reflect what they really perceive in the coffee.

Sample attributes are assessed in turn and assigned a value on a scale from six to ten. Why these numbers? The SCA focuses on specialty coffee, which should achieve at least 80 points overall. A score below six in an individual attribute would indicate that a sample should not be considered specialty.

On SCA forms, we first assess the fragrance and aroma of the ground coffee before and after brewing. Then come flavour, acidity — both subjective enjoyment and objective intensity — body, again considering enjoyment and intensity, and aftertaste. Finally, we assess the balance of flavour and aroma, then add up the points in each section.

Not time to rest on your laurels?

Not quite yet! Remember the cups with unpleasant flavours? We need to account for them, deducting two points for each defective cup from the total. If the sum still reaches at least 80, excellent: the coffee can be called specialty coffee! There is more: a score of 85–89.99 earns the description excellent, while 90–100 is outstanding. That is all — and quite a lot!

We hope this has made coffee scoring a little clearer. Now you know what we mean when we proudly say our coffee has a solid 80 points. It means it is officially recognised as specialty coffee, and its flavour and aroma deserve to be tried, even without a special form, in our mug designed for enjoying coffee at any time of day!

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