Greek coffee
Longevity is not unique to Japan. A New York Times Magazine article famously described the Greek island of Ikaria as “the island where people forget to die”. How can that be? One of the subjects explored in connection with its residents' long lives is coffee.
Of course, Ikarians are not immortal. The island has been described as having an unusually high proportion of people reaching ninety — around one in three in the accounts cited here. Mediterranean populations are often discussed in relation to lower rates of certain chronic illnesses. What might explain that?
A diet associated with good health
The Mediterranean diet includes fish and seafood, good olive oil, plenty of fruit and vegetables, especially pulses, and whole grains. It provides unsaturated fats, lycopene, other plant compounds, vitamins and minerals.
Red wine is part of some local meal traditions and contains resveratrol, an antioxidant compound. That does not make alcohol necessary or advisable for health. Other defining features are an emphasis on minimally processed foods, limited added sugar and less frequent red meat, rather than a literal absence of salt or sugar.
Together, these habits help explain why the Mediterranean dietary pattern is highly regarded. But diet is not the only topic raised when discussing Ikaria. Another distinctive custom is Greek coffee.
Coffee in Greece
The original article cites average Greek coffee consumption of around 5.5 kg per person a year. Coffee accompanies many occasions, from breakfast and watching a match to a leisurely afternoon in a café.
Researchers from Athens explored a possible relationship between coffee habits and vascular function among older Ikarians. Around 87% of participants drank Greek coffee daily, and coffee consumption was associated with more favourable measures of vascular function. An association, however, does not prove that coffee caused better health or that drinking more is always better.
Greek coffee belongs to the tradition of finely ground coffee brewed in a small pot, closely related to Turkish coffee and shaped by the region's Ottoman history. Historical and cultural differences help explain the names used today.
It is made from finely ground coffee brewed in a briki. Do not confuse it with the frappé so popular with visitors. A well-prepared cup traditionally has a layer of foam on top; achieving it depends on the coffee and brewing technique.
Once you have prepared your ideal coffee, do not hurry it. A slower pace of life and time to relax are also part of the Ikarian story.
Why is coffee discussed in relation to Ikarian health?
Besides stimulating caffeine, coffee contains polyphenols studied for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. A prominent example is chlorogenic acid (CGA). Aronia berries and blueberries also provide related plant compounds. But why are antioxidants of interest?
Inflammation and free radicals
A diet high in heavily processed foods, together with smoking, environmental pollution and other factors, can contribute to oxidative stress and chronic inflammation. Persistent fatigue, headaches or hair loss have many possible causes, so they should not be used to self-diagnose inflammation.
Inflammation and oxidative stress are involved in the biology of conditions such as cardiovascular disease, diabetes, dementia and some autoimmune illnesses. They are not a single explanation for every illness, but they are important areas of research.
Oxidative stress occurs when reactive molecules, including free radicals, overwhelm the body's protective systems. In excess, these molecules can damage cells.
The body has its own antioxidant defences, and a varied diet contributes additional protective compounds. Fruit and vegetables, including richly coloured green, orange and red varieties, are valuable sources. Coffee also contains antioxidant compounds such as chlorogenic acids, which are studied for their effects on free radicals and inflammatory pathways.
How do Ikarians prepare Greek coffee?
Put a briki on a suitable burner, add water, finely ground coffee and sugar if desired, then mix well. Let it heat slowly. When the foam begins to rise, take it off the heat before it boils over.
Pour into small cups, let the grounds settle and take your time enjoying your coffee.
Bibliography
- Arnot B., Kawa dla zdrowia, first edition, Wydawnictwo Kobiece, Białystok, 2019.
- Aurell L., Clase M., Food Pharmacy, first edition, Wydawnictwo Otwarte, Kraków, 2017.
- Budryn G., Nebesny E., “Phenolic acids: properties, occurrence in plant materials, absorption and metabolic transformations” (accessed 1 September 2020).
- Parus A., “Antioxidant and pharmacological properties of phenolic acids”, article (accessed 1 September 2020).
- Powiedz to po grecku: Greek coffee.