Coffee Day

More than 66% of Poles drink coffee regularly, and half of us start the day with it. Scandinavians, meanwhile, are among the world's biggest coffee drinkers and make a special occasion of enjoying a cup. It is hardly surprising that coffee has a celebration of its own.

The first International Coffee Day was celebrated on 1 October 2015 in Milan as part of Expo 2015. That does not prevent countries from celebrating coffee locally on different dates. Poland marks its Coffee Day on 29 September, while Brazil celebrates on 24 May. The date, of course, is not the most important part.

Coffee Day is an excellent opportunity to learn more about this drink: where it comes from, where it grows, and how much work and care are needed before the fruit of an unassuming shrub in, say, Colombia reaches our favourite café or shop.

Where coffee comes from

It all began in Ethiopia — at least, that is what the legend says. And since every legend contains a grain of coffee, or rather a grain of truth, let us imagine a shepherd long ago noticing that his goats became much more energetic after eating certain red fruits.

That is the legend. Accounts of coffee's earliest history vary, but Ethiopia is widely recognised as its birthplace. Arab communities later developed coffee drinking and, for centuries, closely guarded the knowledge of growing and roasting it.

Coffee reached Europe through expanding trade, although its early reception was not always welcoming. Stories describe it being condemned as a “devil's drink” because of its association with the Arab world, before Pope Clement VIII supposedly approved of its flavour. These colourful accounts are part of coffee lore rather than a simple, universally agreed timeline.

Coffee appeared in Poland towards the end of the seventeenth century, first finding a place in noble households. Today, we can enjoy it in almost every home. So which types dominate, and how does coffee find its way to our tables?

Arabica and Robusta rule the coffee world

Traditionally described as accounting for around 70% of cultivation, Arabica grows at higher elevations and is more demanding than Robusta. It is more vulnerable to diseases and pests, which makes cultivation more expensive, but it is valued for its aromatic complexity. Its varieties include Geisha, Bourbon and Typica.

Robusta is less demanding and is often described as the remaining 30%, although global shares vary over time. It is more resistant to disease, grows at lower elevations, generally costs less and contains more caffeine.

Countries where coffee is grown

It is no revelation that climate is crucial to coffee growing. That is why commercial cultivation would be difficult in Poland. Important producing countries include Brazil, Vietnam, Colombia, Indonesia, Ethiopia, India, Honduras, Mexico and Guatemala.

Growing a coffee plant takes patience. Growers wait years for flowering and productive harvests; the fruit then takes roughly seven to nine months to ripen, depending on the plant and conditions. After that, several stages of work remain.

First: harvesting

• Mechanical harvesting is used on large industrial plantations.
• Stripping removes the cherries along a branch together.
• Selective picking collects individual ripe cherries. It is the most labour-intensive approach, but careful selection supports high quality.

Second: processing

After harvesting, coffee needs processing before it continues its journey. Three familiar approaches are dry, washed and honey processing.

• Dry processing: the cherries dry in the sun and need regular turning. Coffees produced this way are often associated with fruity notes and sweetness.
• Washed processing: the harvested fruit is depulped and the remaining mucilage is removed, commonly with a fermentation stage and washing, before drying. These coffees often show distinct acidity and clear, varied aromas.
• Honey processing: the fruit skin is removed, but some mucilage remains while the coffee dries rather than undergoing the full washed process. The resulting coffees can be sweet and fruity.

Third: roasting

Roasting has a major influence on the final flavour and aroma. The original guide describes roasting temperatures in the region of 200–300°C and durations from a few minutes to around 20 minutes, followed by cooling. Exact temperatures depend on what is being measured, the equipment and the roast profile.

The process varies with the roaster, coffee species and processing method. Light roasts often highlight fruit and acidity; medium roasts bring greater balance and roast development; dark roasts generally reduce perceived acidity and emphasise bitterness. Speciality coffee is often light or medium roasted. Darker roasts are traditionally popular for espresso, though other roast levels can also be used.

Kopi luwak — famously expensive coffee

Kopi luwak deserves a mention because of its unusual production method and very high price. It comes from Asia and is collected from the droppings of a civet, locally called a luwak.

The animal eats coffee cherries and digests the pulp, but not the beans. After passing through its digestive tract, the beans are collected and processed. The coffee is associated with a mild aroma and a strikingly high price.

Light roast or dark roast, Guatemala or Bolivia, or perhaps a coffee you have never tried before: coffee lovers have an enormous choice. Find your favourite and take time to enjoy it — especially on Coffee Day.